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Numpty car maintenance question

Looking to replace my rear anti roll bar drop links on my 3.0L Peugeot 607 this weekend. Have sourced a trolley jack and a couple ...

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    Not Much To Do honda fatboy's Avatar
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    Default Numpty car maintenance question

    Looking to replace my rear anti roll bar drop links on my 3.0L Peugeot 607 this weekend.

    Have sourced a trolley jack and a couple of axle stands to prop up the rear of the car.

    Looked in my user manual and it only shows me how to lift the car up from the side jack to replace a wheel.

    Unless I'm being completely thick, I can't use this lifting point to raise the car, because I need that position to site the axle stand?

    Is there a specific point on the underside of the car (ie the rear wheel diff box - the bulgy bit of the rear axle?) that I can lift up from?

    Are the side jack points the best place to position the axle stands or, I'm guessing by the name, are there places on the rear axle that I can position the stands to hold the car up?

    Surprized that googling comes up with very little, definitive info on lifting/holding points for a car.

    NB cannot axcess any Youtube info in office to see what to do either!

    HFB
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    I use the rear diff when jacking up the rear of my car. I then place the axle stands under the joint between the top of the lower control arm (suspension arm) and the chassis.

    Drop links are pretty easy, but a gotcha can be that you may not be able to get access to get a socket onto the nut on the front side of the link arm. On the flat part of the ball joint on the other side, will need definitely a spanner to stop it turning.

    On my other half's 525i I needed 2 X 16mm spanners so had to shoot down to Halfords.

    Have you got the drop links already? check to see what size spanner fits the nut and the flat part of the ball joint (used to hold it still), before you start.
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    Not Much To Do honda fatboy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Thanks BM

    Have got the links already and will check tonight - thanks for the heads up!

    I have several sets of spanners/socket from different toolkits, so wouldn't expect to be short of tools.

    So, rear diff boxes are sturdy enough to take the weight of the car initially?

    Will see if I can try to understand what the hell you mean by the suspension arm and chassis joint when I get under there........can always revert to the jack points as earlier mentioned if not sure - main concern was finding a safe lifting point.

    Thank you.

    HFB
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    [QUOTE=honda fatboy;2041946 Unless I'm being completely thick..... (ie the rear wheel diff box - the bulgy bit of the rear axle?) that I can lift up from? [/QUOTE]

    Unless I'm being completely thick - isn't the 607 front wheel drive? In which case... ?
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    Not Much To Do honda fatboy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Heh heh.....is it?

    I did say I was a numpty.

    Not even looked under the motah yet!

    So where else on the rear of a car can I lift from?

    Soz!

    HFB
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Quote Originally Posted by Wossname View Post
    Unless I'm being completely thick - isn't the 607 front wheel drive? In which case... ?
    Looks like your right, well spotted. Being a big car, I just assumed it would be RWD>

    In which case I'd probably use the standard jacking points with the trolley jack then pop an axle stand under the lower rear suspension arm where it joins the chassis and just od one side at a time.

    Remember to crack the wheel nuts with the car on the ground, then lift with the jack, support with the axle stands and then remove the wheel nuts completely.

    Sometimes a second jack of some description can be useful to compress the anti roll bar a bit to help line up the new drop links/remove the old ones.
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Right for me I do this if working on suspension,

    Jack up car partly using car jack at jacking point.
    Continue jacking with trolley jack at suspension mount or similar solid point.
    With trolley jack in place remove jack from jacking point.
    Put axle stand at jacking point.

    need to be careful though as depending on the shape of the jacking point an axle stand may cause damage.

    Where you based chap, might be worth 5 minutes of some ones time to pop over and give you a few pointers.
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    Not Much To Do honda fatboy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Gatwick Mr Beardy

    Will have a lookie tonight, take a few pics and decide if gonna tackle it as being an old shitter, threading a bolt will probably mean writng off the car!!

    Thanks for all of your help gents.

    HFB
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Considering you don't know if it's RWD are you sure you want to be attempting this?
    It's bound to be a bitch of a job with seized bolts and where it is. It wouldn't take a garage long to do with the right kit, have you asked for a quote?
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    Not Much To Do honda fatboy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    It looks like it should be basic mechano type removal replace stuff.

    If the bolts are buggers to remove then fully envisage popping it to my local machanics to do.

    Don't know these things until you try em eh?
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Did we not have this thread a few days ago?
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Personally I normally raise the rear of my Peugeots with the jack under the centre of the rear axle, but you are not supposed to. Then it is possible to get an axle stand under the hub housung close to the rear wheel on each side. But this does mean that the suspension will be holding the weight of the car which may or may not make removal of the link arms easy or more difficult.

    The bolts for the link arms are likely to be seized, so lots of WD40 on the bolts an hour or so before the job will help. They have a ball joint arrangement and you will need an open ended spanner on the flat on the ball joint to stop it spinning to get the nut off. I've encountered front drop links which have a hex socket on the shaft before now in which case you will need an Allen key and a ring spanner on the nut to get it off. HTH
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    WD40 might work but remember it stands for 'water displacement', for a hard core job like this I'd be looking for a dedicated penetrating oil.
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Quote Originally Posted by Back-Marcus View Post
    Looks like your right, well spotted. Being a big car, I just assumed it would be RWD>.
    Ummm....not all big cars are BMs or Mercs, you know. I thought you knew stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mussels View Post
    Considering you don't know if it's RWD are you sure you want to be attempting this?
    It's bound to be a bitch of a job with seized bolts and where it is. It wouldn't take a garage long to do with the right kit, have you asked for a quote?
    +1

    Quote Originally Posted by honda fatboy View Post
    It looks like it should be basic mechano type removal replace stuff. BEWARE!!!

    If the bolts are buggers to remove then fully envisage popping it to my local mechanics to do.

    Don't know these things until you try em eh?
    ....no, but what you'll do is round off all the important bolts to buggery, and then take it to a mechanic to sort it. Then you'll moan like hell because he'll charge you for the 8 hours it took him to solve the problems you've caused.

    Save yourself some money, time and stress. Take it to him FIRST.

    I know about this problem; the bolts are in VERY tight, and won't have been moved since the car was new. YKIMS.
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    Default Re: Numpty car maintenance question

    Quote Originally Posted by Wossname View Post
    Ummm....not all big cars are BMs or Mercs, you know. I thought you knew stuff.



    +1

    ....no, but what you'll do is round off all the important bolts to buggery, and then take it to a mechanic to sort it. Then you'll moan like hell because he'll charge you for the 8 hours it took him to solve the problems you've caused.

    Save yourself some money, time and stress. Take it to him FIRST.

    I know about this problem; the bolts are in VERY tight, and won't have been moved since the car was new. YKIMS.
    I assumed it was rwd as the OP said it had a rear diff. Being a big car it sounded plausible.

    Not being funny, but nobody is born an ace mechanic, you have to learn somewhere. This sounds like a good time to start and save 100 ish in labour in the process.
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