Cam type chain adjusters

So most of my bikes had threaded adjusters whcih I had no probs with

I just took the rear wheel of my XT and serviced the brake and cleaned up the chain. After re-fitting I went to set the adjustment 30-40mm stated in the manual.

On one setting the free play is 50mm
On the next setting it is 25mm

So they are convient and allow you to quickly align the wheel but not as fine tuneable as threaded adjusters.....

So I risk having the chain too tight at 25mm.
Or too loose with the possibility of the chain rattling around or coming off..

I have left the job un-finished being unsure what to do?

Too loose is always better than too tight, at least where chains are concerned.

Originally Posted by Druid

Too loose is always better than too tight, at least where chains are concerned.

Think I will opt for the looser setting and just keep a close eye on it then. 50mm seems quite a lot tho.

Originally Posted by Mr_Cool

Think I will opt for the looser setting and just keep a close eye on it then. 50mm seems quite a lot tho.

Isn't there quite a lot of 'take up' on the chain when you sit on the bike though with the trailie style bikes? I had an old C reg XT600 and when not on the bike the chain appeared quite loose but when sitting on it the tension was just about right.

Originally Posted by TRDman

Isn't there quite a lot of 'take up' on the chain when you sit on the bike though with the trailie style bikes? I had an old C reg XT600 and when not on the bike the chain appeared quite loose but when sitting on it the tension was just about right.

Yea it should be a bit tighter once the shocker is compressed. I was just going by the book (30-40mm with the bike unlaided)

Originally Posted by TRDman

Isn't there quite a lot of 'take up' on the chain when you sit on the bike though with the trailie style bikes? I had an old C reg XT600 and when not on the bike the chain appeared quite loose but when sitting on it the tension was just about right.

On all bikes, depends on the relationship between front sprocket, swingarm pivot and rear sprocket - which is the difference you describe with the bike unloaded/unloaded. Ideally slack should be measured with all three points in a straight line and the chain at its tightest, least worn, point. In a lot of cases this would necessitate removing the shock, so isn't really practical so slack is often given as distance form a certain point on the swingarm.

It's easiest to experiment, erring on the slack side, and readjust for perfection. Not all bikes are the same - I've seen bikes come out of bike shops with the chain adjusted tight as a bow string.

compressing the suspension with a ratchet strap is fairly effective at getting the rear suspension to the point where the rear wheel is furthest from the front sprocket.

I've had bikes wit snail cam chain adjusters and that sounds like an unusualy large change in tension from just one notch.

Originally Posted by MyLittleStudPony

I've had bikes wit snail cam chain adjusters and that sounds like an unusualy large change in tension from just one notch.

+1, I had them on my MTX and it was far more progressive than that.

Got a pic of the adjusters?