VFR800 valve clearance + oddness

Anyone checked theirs? (old pre-vtec model btw).

There's some vague waves of the hand in a couple of mags I've read saying "requires special tools, leave it to a dealer". I've never worked on a bike with gear driven cams so I'm not 100% but can't imagine it's gonna require anything too bespoke to accomplish. Shop manual seems to agree...

Notice I say check. I've got my fingers crossed I won't need to alter them

Also the fucker stuck in gear coming down the box this morning, with pappyhole softening consequences. Couldn't get it out of gear, stalled, had to rock it into neutral. It was fine afterwards.

Dunno if it might be clutch plates, reservoir or a tired washer in there. Anyone had this? Old bastard never skipped a beat before today so I think it needs some oily love.

Cheers!

Fairly certain it doesn't need special tools. General rule is that they usually don't need doing much before 24,000 miles either - set them to the largest gap possible when doing them and forget them for another 24,000.

Originally Posted by littleredrooster

Fairly certain it doesn't need special tools. General rule is that they usually don't need doing much before 24,000 miles either - set them to the largest gap possible when doing them and forget them for another 24,000.

As with all generalisations......

Mine needed 5 valves reshimmed at 16K. I have a friend who specialises in servicing them. The ones that have been ridden hard tend to need done at 16K. If you're a bimbler you can probably do more miles before they need done.

Originally Posted by Schtum

As with all generalisations......

Mine needed 5 valves reshimmed at 16K. I have a friend who specialises in servicing them. The ones that have been ridden hard tend to need done at 16K. If you're a bimbler you can probably do more miles before they need done.

Huh,if it's willies you want,my clearances would need done after 2k.

'kin hard ridin' mo fo I

Originally Posted by Mr Rooty Tooty

Anyone checked theirs? (old pre-vtec model btw).

There's some vague waves of the hand in a couple of mags I've read saying "requires special tools, leave it to a dealer". I've never worked on a bike with gear driven cams so I'm not 100% but can't imagine it's gonna require anything too bespoke to accomplish. Shop manual seems to agree...

Notice I say check. I've got my fingers crossed I won't need to alter them

I only ever checked the valves on my NC30 when the lump was on the bench (much easier!).
If it's the same arrangement on the 800(not sure if it is), then you don't need any special tools, just slide the follower out of the way and remove the shim with a small screwdriver with a blob of grease on the end. You might have fun getting to some of the shims with the motor in the frame though.....

Also the fucker stuck in gear coming down the box this morning, with pappyhole softening consequences. Couldn't get it out of gear, stalled, had to rock it into neutral. It was fine afterwards.

Dunno if it might be clutch plates, reservoir or a tired washer in there. Anyone had this? Old bastard never skipped a beat before today so I think it needs some oily love.

Cheers!

Check the gear lever pivot isn't partially seized. Common on Suzukis but pretty likely in this salty weather.

Cheers guys.

I've done the valves on a VFR750, it's not too different from the 800. Front cam cover is a bugger to get off, side mounted rads on the 800 should make it a bit easier. Shims are under the buckets but the gear driven cams make it an easy* job to remove the cams, lift the bucket and change the shims if you need to.


*Easier than if it had chain driven cams, anyway

I too have done a 750 flavour one, the biggest problem was access to the front half of the V, the actual change was fairly straight forward as I recall.

I've done this job - it's actually easier than on an IL4 with chain driven cams.

One thing to watch though is when you put all the cooling hoses back on* behind the throttle bodies there is potential for an airlock and you need to bleed it at the highest hose junction - there is no bleed screw. If you don't the auto fast idle is not immersed in the coolant and the bike will never come down off "choke".

* I was changing the coolant too anyway - you might not *need* to remove the pipes, but it'll make life easier.

Old thread but pinging it back up to remind me about the cooling hoses. I need to do this job and think I have an airlock near to the auto fast idle, hence high revving.

Originally Posted by Bobzilla

Old thread but pinging it back up to remind me about the cooling hoses. I need to do this job and think I have an airlock near to the auto fast idle, hence high revving.

taipan had a great trick with a hose of a peugeot or whatever that has a bleed screw in it. The one's that lead to the interior heater near the baulkhead

Originally Posted by Editor

taipan had a great trick with a hose of a peugeot or whatever that has a bleed screw in it. The one's that lead to the interior heater near the baulkhead

From description,that may have been early,circa 1996,Laguna.

I've replaced no end of broken ones over the years.5 mm plastic screw with a bloody great head on it.

Originally Posted by FlatheadDave

From description,that may have been early,circa 1996,Laguna.

I've replaced no end of broken ones over the years.5 mm plastic screw with a bloody great head on it.

fairly sure my 205 diesels had them too. That's the kiddy though.