Seized clutch plates - can they be freed?

My SZR660 has been sat pretty much untouched and unloved for over four years now. The last time it was started was two years back.

A couple of weeks ago I finally got a new battery and fuel pump and managed to get it ticking over nicely but when I put it into gear, it just lurched forwards and stalled. Obviously (at least I assume so) the clutch plates have seized together. Is there any way of freeing them without taking the clutch cover off and loosening the springs a little? If I keep banging the bike into gear from neutral are they likely to free themselves or will I do damage?

start it.get it warm.then stop the bike and put it into gear and try pushing it backwards and forwards.id use my kickstart to free my plates on my old yam before starting it.

Get it started and warm as Tack said. The sit on the bike with the front wheel against a wall, pull in the clutch, foot on the rear brake and stamp it into gear.

Best way to avoid blowing the gearbox (!) is to bump start it, get it good and hot, ride along in gear, pull in the clutch and stand on the rear brake. Use highish revs because it's the inertia in the flywheel which will act against the "locked up" gearbox, unless you keep on the gas. It's the shock which should free it though, not prolonged torque.

You can prop it up against a wall but last time I did that with my old Montesa, it simply climbed up the wall!

I don't think a SZR600 would climb a wall......

FFR, a tip I recently picked up was to drop a 3/8" bolt between the lever and cable abutment when the bike is left for any length of time. Keeps the plates separated slightly so they don't stick.

Top tip ^

Rather than stamp the bike into gear I'd suggest a slight variation on Screwdriver's approach, which a garage used when the clutch on my old Sierra stuck. Bump start it on a stretch of empty road then with the clutch held in do a series of full throttle accelerations and shutoffs. It's a bit less brutal on the gearbox. The thing is, if you put on a big shock load you never quite know if you are overloading the box - just accelerate under engine power and you know you're not giving it more than it was designed to take.

Originally Posted by iansoady

drop a 3/8" bolt between the lever and cable abutment when the bike is left for any length of time. Keeps the plates separated slightly so they don't stick.

Bloody good idea that, maybe not for a hydraulic clutch though?

Getting it nice and warm is good, gives the oil a chance to thin. Then if you've got a centre-stand pop it in gear and gently apply the back brake. Might take a few goes but is less brutal than stamping it into gear on the ground.

Thanks all. Will give it a go over the weekend.

Originally Posted by DodgetheRog

Thanks all. Will give it a go over the weekend.

Don't forget to get someone to film you doing it!

Just a quick note - Not sure about the SZR, but make sure it is the clutch plates that are stuck.
I tried some of these old dodges on an FZR1000, only to find what was actually wrong was that the hydraulic master cylinder wasn't working (bad / leaking seal - a new seal kit cured it), and wasn't actually actuating the clutch. No wonder the old girl wouldn't free her clutch up - there was nothing wrong with the clutch - the problem was on the handle bars. [I am not a total Dufus, the clutch lever did feel like it was doing something - But it turns out it wasn't]

Why on earth wouldn't you just whip off the clutch cover and free-them up. It takes about 30 mins and you don't even have to drain the oil?

Originally Posted by cheb

sit on the bike with the front wheel against a wall, pull in the clutch, foot on the rear brake and stamp it into gear.

Then change the oil and pick out all the spare bits of metal with a magnet.

Start the bike, get it thoroughly hot, let it cool, repeat a few times. Sometimes works.

Whoops, forgot about this. All sorted. Warmed the bike up with the clutch lever held in, tapped it into first no problem. Now it's done some miles it all seems freed up.