Went out on the LM today and did about 60+ miles, I'm taking it off the road at the end of October for a winter of garage fun. I've already mentioned in another thread about my plans for the winter ( suspension, brake lines, valve checks and points) but wanted a last (but one) ride see if there is anything else.
Today pretty much confirmed I'm right about the suspension. The rear currently has dual spring S&W shocks but I'm afraid they have had their day. Ordered a pair of top of the range multiple adjustable Hagon shocks yesterday. They might come in time to be fitted for next weekend, which will hopefully enable me to see how much of a problem (relative) the front end is. Got bounced out of the seat on one bump and some bits of road were quite jarring. I think I'm going for FAC suspension with progressive springs for the front as I believe its still the original setup.
Throttle and clutch are still heavy but I have plans for those ( removing springs and replacing cables).
I've been most impressed with the petrols from BP and Shell. I've always used the higher octane petrols in it and the tickover and throttle response has been getting better and better as the miles have passed. I stripped and cleaned both the carbs with carb cleaner (but not ultrasonic cleaned), but as more fuel has gone through the better the bike has run.
Not sure how many miles I've done this year but I did record it at the start and will do the same next weekend when I start playing
I bought a set for a race bike once, they're very nice.
When I took my standard lemon 3 Paoli fork apart I think someone may have put rather more than 80psi through the air bladder! I'm replacing the oil in the damper with 5wt and I'll bodge it back together, but if it's crap when I finally get to ride it, I'll put a pair of FACs in.
I've just got my carbs back from ultrasonic cleaning, they certainly look good. I'm going to rebuild them both before they go back on. The Dell Orto kits seem to have rather a lot of small washers that are almost, but not quite, the same size, so I hope I get them in the right places 😕
I'm going to need new tyres as the ones on it look about 20 years old, and are more like hard plastic now than rubber. Which brand are you using?
I to am still on old tyres which were on when I got it last October, some old Metzlers. This year was shake down, getting the bike running (it was a none runner when I got it), seeing what needed replacing. Tires are on the list and my choice is between; Battlax BT45, Michelin Pilot Activ or Pirelli Sport Demon. BT45s seem a popular choice, I like Michelin Pilots on my Tuono (different tyres mind)and I had Pirellis on my original Le mans. Prices are all similar so just going to see what I feel like on the day/whats available.
Saying that I've still managed to get my toe down on the old tyres, it's more the jolting ride I'm worried about then grip, although bakelite tyres won't help give a smooth ride.
Pics to keep Yorick happy.
Well the Hagon shocks arrived at 1830 tonight (ordered Sunday) and are now fitted. They appear to be about 30mm shorter than the S&W shocks that came with the bike, so I suspect it will take some weight off the front and may give the standard forks an easier time. I'm still planning to put FAC dampers in but will have a test ride(s) at the weekend to see what the difference is.
How long are the S&Ws, do you know if they're street strokers and how knackered are they?
I'll measure up tomorrow. They're not knackered I'm just changing them because I'm a tart. If you zoom in on the picture above you can just see them. The top spring (dual springs) are black plastic coated still with some brown and white (from memory) paint on them that denotes the spring rate or something.
Measured up this morning, the S&W are 330mm between centres. Didn't actually measure the Hagons on the bike or specify the length when ordering from Hagons, just used their drop down menu. Will have to have a measure up tonight. Gutsibits supply 320mm Hagons for the Mk1 but are about £10 more expensive plus postage then getting them direct from Hagon
I thought when fitting the shocks it would be quite a quick job to just undo four bolts, and do one side at a time, but the exhaust was in the way of the lower bolts. Then thought if I undid both top mounts I could lower the swingarm and get the bottom mounts off, the advantage of having a centre stand, but of course the exhausts stopped the shocks moving sideways enough to remove the shocks from the bottom mount. So in the end, with both top mounts off I put a blocks of wood under the wheel and a lever and lifted the rear wheel up enough to clear the exhaust which meant I could remove the bottom end of the shock and install the new ones.
Back end of a Guzzi is a bit heavy with the shaft drive and wheel still in place.
Last weekend did about 100 miles with the Hagons fitted, just left them on the mid settings even the damping 'cos I got the fancy ones. The backend is now less jarring, but will have to wait till next year to play with the damping.
Bike is now SORNed and in the garage. The wheels, tank and seat are off and I've started fitting Goodridge hoses. Done the front right (hand) brake and started on the front left (linked) brake. Unfortunately the supplied braided hose is a little long and I just can't get it routed right. It's looping between the frame and yoke and acting as a wishbone spring when the handlebars are turned lock to lock. Without the front wheel in, turning the handlebars is very light and the effect a the braided hose can be felt and seen.
So, the plan is to shorten the solid brake pipe 10 or 20mm which runs from the linked brake splitter from the rear to under the tank, this should take up the spare from the braided hose and stop it compressing when the bars are turned.
Had to buy a brake pipe flaring kit though, which I just got off ebay for under a £10, possibly the only time I'll use it
Bit more of an update.
Shortened the solid brake line by about 30mm and re routed the front (left) braided brakeline more centrally which in turn gave a much better route and does not effect the steering.
Taken both heads and barrels off one at a time. Made my own gudgeon pin remover/installer that doesn't involve wacking a socket with a hammer to get the pin out. New gaskets and circlips ordered. Left hand side of first and decoked. Broke the bottom ring when sliding the barrel back on, arse, although thats the first ring problem I've had in about 20 barrel removals on various bikes both 2 and 4 stroke. New rings ordered and fitted.
Right hand side went back on yesterday with no dramas. Decoking and re grinding the valves tomorrow/next couple of days. Both sides have a different type of "coke"the RHS plug has always been a better colour, bikes done 38,000+ of which I did 800 over the summer.
Also altered the oil breathers. previously I had both the gearbox and engine going into a bottle attached to the centre stand. Now the gearbox vent up a long pipe which goes straight up under the tank. The engine, after the separate oil collector mounted between the "V" uses a new hose the travels the length of the bike top frame tube along the rear mudguard to the number plate (when fitted) and out the back like some James Bond baddy discouraging device (if the oil makes it that far.