I normally don't like the word fettling but for some reason I wanted to use it, just this once.
Since buying the 610 from Julian, I have grown quite fond of it. It is not the fastest, lairiest, or craziest supermoto or enduro, but the 610 has a pleasant character and is a bike you can "grow into" without being intimidating. It also works well off road and me being an off road fanatic, that is very good for me as I like to go off road during the weekends.
With both setups it is versatile and a bargain for £1000.
As a result of this off roading, much to Julian's horror, his beloved 610 has taken quite a battering. Indeed, there have been times when it has had several faults on the go at once, this thread is about me gradually whittling down the faults and then hopefully doing some performance and cosmetic mods.
Since starting my first full time job, it has opened up many opportunities. A few people have been on at me to buy a newer bike, but that is not how I do things. I want to restore this to it's former glory, starting with the mechanical things first.
Since I've got the bike I have done the following:
Replaced cam chain and exhaust rocker arm bearing
Changed oil twice
Changed oil filter
Spliced stator wires and fitted new grommet (old one was leaking from slitting it for the second time when the pickup coil wires snapped)
Got through 5 pickup coils (wiring can be tricky on these hence the number I've got through)
Converted automatic cam chain tensioner (which turned out to be broken anyway and leaving a slack chain!) to manual with an 80mm m6 bolt through the tensioner housing
Tubeless converted rear SM wheel, front SM wheel is leaking at the bead due to tyre/rim (hoping just the tyre, don't know yet!)
Fitted 7x5 number plate after breaking the two full sized ones off road (plus it looks better)
Stripped and cleaned carb multiple times
New TwinAir filter
New starter relay x2 (seems to eat these, likely due to their proximity to the exhaust)
New gear levers x2 (shaft was worn so these just got worn quite quickly)
Fixed right hand footpeg by welding a stud into the hole
Replaced worn out headstock bearings and rubber mounting bushes
Checked valve clearances
Remove clutch and clutch hub to replace gear selector shaft and gear selector then attach new gear lever
Replace vinyls on side panels with new ones
Polish swing arm
replace speedo drive and cable after breaking it off road
Clean and polish wheels
Fix rocker arm leak
Replace bark busters with new ones
Replace hand grips with new ones
Beefier main carb jet for more power
I find sorting things a very satisfying process, especially when I start to see the fruits of my labour! Despite claims to the contrary on here, this has been a very reliable motor, I estimate I've put my first 7k miles on it up to now, a mixture of road and off road riding and some very tough situations, like being covered in clay all over. The motor itself has never failed, even (evidently) when the rocker arm bearing lost all of it's needles.
The list is long and huge but I plan to update this thread from this point on.
However, I will post pics of the cam chain replacement and stator repair as I think I did quite well on that.
Cam chain replacement strip down feb 2016
All done in this little space as my mum doesn't allow mechanical work at home:
That's my old man's basement flat!
New rocker arm bearing, welded as did not have a vice to press the old one out and the new one in
Old cam chain vs new cam chain, can't tell the difference, didn't look like the old one needed replacing even!
Oh yeah, the cam chain was a tooth out when I replaced it, I put it back exactly but it didn't seem to make any difference to how it ran:
You can just about see the dot on the left hand side there, it's supposed to be level with the cylinder head to rocker cover mating surface but is a tooth's distance up from there.
Next I will show you the stator repair job I had to do.
Stator repair job
The first time I had to slit the stator wire rubber grommet that comes out of the stator housing to replace the wiring I got away with it. However, for some reason (can't remember why) I had to replace the pulsar coil again so I had to slit it further and I couldn't get it to seal again after that.
Unable to source a second hand stator assembly and with the bike immobilised until then, I decided to buy a second hand stator from a different model Husky but with the same shaped grommet, cut all of the wires from my stator, slide the new grommet on and then solder all the wires again.
I hate wire splicing as it is so fiddly and I have to bring the whole stator assembly home as I don't have electricity in my garage so it took a couple of weekends of back and forth to get it how I wanted it.
In the end after the wires melting on the exhaust the first time around, I decided I would make a DIY "cable" and route it properly between the exhaust headers.
Duct tape is always useful!
Especially when combined with this:
One sturdy DIY cable in situ
Exhaust headers heat wrapped for further insurance. I haven't had a peep from it since, it's doing fine.
I appear to be having battery charging issues, the engine was feeling stutterery at low revs, not revving smoothly and the neutral light was dim.
About 10 days ago the battery went flat, so I swapped my spare in. Today, at the Dover play area, the spare went flat and I had to get someone on a pitbike to tow my bike so that I could bump start it.
When it happened on the original battery I measured the stator output. All three pins to each other gave 20v roughly which is correct.
I also measured the battery charging and it charges 14.3v at idle, but when I rev the bike up it drops to below 10v, lowest I saw was 8v.
A quick Google suggests that this is a reg/rec fault. It did raise an eyebrow that the voltage drops when I opened the throttle, so no wonder the batteries are needing a recharge every week!
On a positive note, I have found the best performance mod is a healthy battery. I didn't realise how much a low battery dullens performance.
I swapped in the freshly charged unit and the bike almost flew out of my hands! Okay, an exaggeration, but it felt really alive again, really wanting to rev and be opened up.
This post from the gixxer forum is making me second guess the reg/rec and wonder if it is the stator:
Here's the full thread:Originally Posted by ZXALAN
As I have said though, I have measured the stator output at the plug and it increases with revs, as you would expect. But when I measure at the battery, the voltage decreases with revs. It would appear that the reg/rec is diverting too much of the current to ground when the engine is revved, almost as though it is overreacting!
http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf which will help you diagnose your electrics.
Thank you, I have checked fuses, I am certain it's the reg/rec. The voltage should stay consistent at the battery or increase slightly during throttle opening, not drop. It's weird though because the batteries seem to last a long time and then start playing up. But it's definitely not charging right.Originally Posted by balbas
Charged battery on Monday, rode two miles from garage to house, went to start this morning, pressing the starter button just made the neutral light fade out and not come back on until I released it, wouldn't even turn over.
Charged battery freshly tonight and is turning over again, will get up extra early tomorrow incase I have to give the battery an extra boost or swap my spare in.
Hopefully I can have a look at the reg/rec at work as well.
Second hand one on ebay for £45, new one from huskymoto.co.uk £55, no brainer, might as well get the new one!
Edit: Just to clarify there are two fuses in my bike and I have replaced them both but it didn't help.
Minor fettling today, just fitted a new front sprocket, however the seller mistakenly gave me a 15t by mistake, holy crap, this bike's an animal! Going to remove it as it makes it too hard to control.
No not really, although I do think it is too compromised for road use. Going to send it back in return for a 16t or maybe even a 17t if one will fit. This bike is all about cruising in the low revs, it doesn't like to rev much. Better to ride the wave of torque.
Edit: Also, last job before the bike is mechanically sorted, input shaft and gear lever sitting on my computer desk...going to fit them first thing on Saturday. It's going to feel amazing with a tight gear lever, next goal, track day!
Still got an oil leak from the rocker shaft, given up on it, replaced O ring and bushing...not sure what is causing it. Hopefully it will still pass scruitineering.
Right, case in point of needing the gear lever changed. Traffic lights, red, 1st, short shift into second, wheelie, nailed it. Next set of traffic lights-red. Same again except it didn't go into second and got neutral instead, ended up doing an unintentional rev bomb and probably looking like a tit.
Hopefully tomorrow can be the day it finally happens. I need to take all the clutch plates out and the clutch hub off before I can get to that shaft. Some mechanics at work have told me to tack weld it but I would rather do it the proper way and keep it easily removable and replaceable.
I think the battery charging issue might actually be to do with the plug that goes to the starter relay. I am going to try wiring the voltage regulator directly to the battery, as in this thread on cafehusky.com
That's the last big job done now! The old one had been bent upwards quite significantly, I can only imagine from a crash. It was at such an irritating angle to shift!
I had to use a mini hacksaw to saw the end off so I could get the blighter out! Also took a look at the clutch basket spring washers (a known weak point on the 610) and the clutch discs themselves. On the way there, for some reason the clutch felt unusually "grabby" i.e. I would release it and then it wouldn't do much then "bite" which is something I've not noticed before, so the clutch discs may be on their way out. But on my ride back, it was back to normal!
Anyway, one thing I have noticed which I noticed with the last gear lever shaft is that the bolt seems to slacken very quickly after doing it up and that I believe is what lead to the old shaft wearing out. I have tried threadtite and it doesn't hold, someone suggested gumming the threads up with silicone which will be my next move.
Pics are below:
A low mood due to the bent input shaft not coming out made me think that this hole was some engine damage (it is quite an irregular shape), later on I realised it was supposed to be there and the reason I hadn't noticed it before was because I hadn't removed the clutch hub before.
Next, I took a pic of the clutch discs, they are all worn roughly the same, it still looks to me like there is some wear left on them, what, a couple hundred miles? A new pack is only £20 from ebay so I might as well be on the safe side. Wheelies wear clutches!
I couldn't find a good way of bending the washer tabs back without mangling the clutch basket a bit, I put a bit of locktite on for good measure, but figure the heat and oil will melt it away anyhow.
Lastly, I took a peak at the clutch hub spring washers as they are a known weak point and it does look like they are wearing a bit thin:
The OEM ones are said to be weak on the Husky forums, but I figure these have done 30000km so if I replace them I can't complain for another 30000km, but I will leave them as they are for the moment as the springs are still being held firmly where they should be.